February 21, 2015 0
Sonia Poxson is a master stylist and colorist in Denver, Colorado via Roseville Michigan. Sonia and Nicole met as booth renters at The Retro Room Salon. (a small non-organic salon in Lodo) Once My Hair Trip was up and running, Paul and Nicole were thrilled when Sonia asked if she could come on board. She is honestly one of the best stylists in the city and My Hair Trip Salon Denver is extremely lucky to have her. Sonia brings not only amazing skills as a professional hair stylist and colorist but she brings an overall positivity and energy that radiates throughout the salon.
Experience: Sonia has 11 years experience as a master stylist and colorist.
Sonia graduated cosmetology school from David Presley School of Cosmotology in 2004.
Sonia is a dedicated session stylist who specializes in updos for special events such as weddings and fashion shows.
Sonia has worked personally assisting Kevin Murphey.
Sonia is a professional, certified organic colorist, session stylist, and master cosmetologist. Any cut , any color , any time.
January 24, 2015 0
These are the hottest hair color trends of 2015, so get your Pinterest finger ready!
Baby Lights Hair Color Trend: Move over, ombre! There’s a new hair color trend in town, and it goes by the name “babylights.”
Babylights are reminiscent of the soft, sunkissed strands that graced your hair as a child. To achieve this look, pair finely woven highlights with handpainted pieces for a dimensional, yet subtle glow around the face and ends.
As the name may infer, Babylights have the ability to add a hint of youth to your client’s overall appearance.“Never doubt the power of a few face framing highlights.” [Click to Tweet this quote] Babylights are particularly low maintenance, and can be done on all hair types, making it a great choice for almost anyone who sits in your chair.
The key with this hair color trend is to find the delicate balance between placement and natural color graduation. Unlike your ombré technique, bold and high contrasting root to end colors with lines of demarcation are not the goal.
We recommend microhighlighting in small sections where you need control (face + crown), and using your baylayage technique through the mids and ends to keep the final look as natural looking as possible.
PRO TIP: Be sure your lighter pieces aren’t lifted too high – a safe rule of the thumb is to make your highlights about 2 shades lighter than your base color.
Color of the year: Marsala!
According to Pantone, an expert color company, 2015’s Color of the Year is Marsala – a robust and earthy wine red. Elegant and multifaceted, Marsala can act as a bold statement color or complementary tone for many of your browns and reds.
Let’s explore how this trend could manifest itself in hair color:
Aubergine Hair Color
Aubergine appears on the very violet spectrum of your wine reds. Its deep plum and dark red hues resemble that of a young, full-bodied wine.
This hair color trend is extremely versatile and can look great on all skin tones. For cooler complexions, focus on your purple, eggplant hues; for warmer skin tones, add a few brownish-red colors to ensure skin does not appear yellow or sallow.
“I love formulating this hair color for my darker leveled clients,” says Organic Color Systems’ Technical Director, Rebecca Gregory, “Aubergine is the perfect complementary color for cool or neutral brunettes living at levels 4 and below.”
Merlot Hair Color
Much like the wine, Merlot is a rich red color with subtle hints of cherry and cocoa. This vibrant shade contains equal parts violet and red, and much like Aubergine, can be easily modified to suit all skin tones.
In 2015, you’ll find requests for all over colors to be a rarity – most everyone is looking for a little pop or dimension. That being said, Merlot is the perfect color pairing for brown-based reds, and can be used as a deep lowlight or in slices to create beautifully dimensional redheads, which are also on very on trend.
Rose Gold Tones
Rose gold isn’t just for blondes, though lightening powder is usually required!
These gorgeous pinkish copper tones can be accomplished on almost all hair colors. However, in order to achieve this highly sought after hair color trend, you will need to pre-lighten or begin depositing on levels 8 and higher.
PRO TIP: For longer lasting rose gold hues, try using the gold-yellow pigment present after lifting hair to a level 8 or 9. By not lifting past a level 9, pH and protein levels stay in tact, allowing for a longer lasting color service.
Rich Brunettes with Caramel Highlights
It’s a classic, but a rich chocolate brown hair color with caramel highlights is a great choice for brunette clients who crave dimension without commitment.
PRO TIP: If you’re looking for a beautiful brown base color to pair with caramel highlights, look to your mochas and neutrals. Too cool of browns can cause your hair color to appear dull and flat.
However, don’t be afraid to mix caramel tones in with your soft, beige blondes for an ultra sophisticated look. Copper hues are trending for all almost hair colors this season.
Whether you’re formulating for apricot blondes, spicy reds, or dimensional brunettes, copper tones are the perfect partner for hair colors with a golden hue. This hair color trend is best suited for netural to warm complexions with gold, peach or yellow undertones.
Remember when clients just wanted to cover greys? For Hair Stylists and clients alike, pesky silver strands were once considered enemy number one.
However, in 2015, showing off silver hair will be anything but unacceptable for clients of all ages.
Organic Colorist, Sarah Whitesell says, “I’ve seen more of my mature clients being taken from all over grey coverage to actually letting their beautiful silvers and greys show by complimenting them with sandy blondes tones to create natural, soft dimension.”
Blending silvers with blonde is a striking combination, but never doubt the beauty of a front-facing silver streak paired with a dark brown base.
PRO TIP: Depending on your percentage and type of naturally silver hair, texture can be wiry and unruly. Be sure to conduct a Wet Stretch Test prior to your color application, as a moisturizing treatment might be needed to soften the cuticle.
On one of the end spectrum, silver can be used subtly to create an overall natural look, but to adapt this color for your edgier clients, look to your blue-based colors to achieve an all over fashion color.
PRO TIP: For an all over application, you’ll need to pre-lighten the hair to a very pale yellow (so keep those protein treatments handy)!
Gray Hair Color Trend
Quite possibly the perfect color accessory for Silver Fox, dark grey and charcoal hair colors will continue to trend upward this season.
Your hair color formulas can be tweaked to reveal cooler, slate-like hues or warmer, beige greys – all are on trend. In fact, we recommend baylayaging a few different types of grey and silver to create a highly dimensional fashion hair color.
If you’re looking to create a grey look for your mature clients, look for predominantly warmer tones, since they are more naturally occurring than blue-greys, and natural grey hair lacks gold pigment.
Last year, platinum blonde was one of the most popular hair color trends with celebrities like Anne Hathaway and Jennifer Lawrence opting to join the light side. As a salon professional, you know bold hair color trends sported by celebrities will trickle their way into the salon, eventually. On that note, we predict 2015 hair color trends will continue to see a rise in platinum blondes locks for those that weren’t quite ready in previous years.
PRO TIP: While platinum blonde in the 90’s was distinguished by golden undertones (we’re looking at you, Justin Timberlake), 2015’s platinum is more modern and chic. Be sure to to lift the hair to a very pale yellow and cancel warm tones accordingly.
This is a great opportunity to introduce clients to a much needed silver shampoo!
In recent years, we’ve seen a rise in demand for fun and flirty pastel hair colors like bubblegum pink and lavender. But just like any hair trend, styles evolve and it’s our job as stylists to stay updated.
Expect matte pastels to take on a lustrous life of their own with a new focus on shiny, metallic finishes. For strands to reflect these shimmery tones, hair must be kept as healthy as possible. Since nearly all pastel hair colors require a lifting process, protein and moisture treatments will be a necessary component of this trend.
PRO TIP: For added sheen, be sure to experiment with your gold and silver additives.
Get these and all your color needs in 2015 met at Denver’s Organic Hair Salon: My Hair Trip Salon Denver – 773 Santa Fe Drive, Denver, CO, 80204Leave a reply
September 27, 2014 0
Before we jump to any conclusions, one should know the differences among the salon industry’s top professional color lines – not all ammonia-free hair color is created equal.
First, let’s quickly remind ourselves the part ammonia plays in hair color:
Ammonia’s primary function is to raise the pH of the hair, open the cuticle, and allow for color to enter the cortex. The more ammonia in a color product, the higher the pH of the hair will become and the wider the cuticle will open.
The average working pH of hair processed with ammoniated hair color is 10-11, while the natural isometric pH of hair is 4.5-5.5!
NOTE: The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning with each rise in pH level, the new level is 10x more alkaline or acidic than the previous level – that’s huge!
This means ammonia-based hair color makes the hair 600x more alkaline than it’s original state. This blasting open of the cuticle makes re-closing the hair nearly impossible, resulting in a major loss of protein and moisture, as well as imminent color fading and damage.
Depending on the brand, you can find any number of these ingredients used instead of ammonia.
– Monoethanolamine (MEA)
– Cocomide MEA
– Aminomethylpropanol (AMEA)
Here’s where the difference in ammonia free hair color lines gets serious!
While MEA or Ethanolamine are odorless and not as corrosive as ammonia, the pH of the hair is STILL raised to an extraordinarily high level, if used in the same percentages as ammonia.
The only thing most brands have achieved in removing ammonia is just that – the removal of ammonia – they’ve still neglected one of the most vital components of hair health – a balanced pH!
So, what can professional ammonia free hair color brands do to ensure the pH of the hair is kept intact?
The answer is simple – use heat to help open the cuticle.
If a professional, ammonia-free color line doesn’t use heat to help open the cuticle, they’re using MEA or Ethanolamine in the same percentages as ammonia, and consequently, wreaking havoc on the structural integrity of the hair.
Aim for color lines that minimize the use of Ethanolamine and MEA, not ones that just simply swap ammonia for an odor-free alternative.
Most ammonia-free hair color lines use a synthetic source of Ethanolamine – produced by the reaction of ethylene oxide with ammonia.
However, there’s a natural source of Ethanolamine derived from the fatty acids in coconut, called Cocomide MEA. The natural emollients present in this form of MEA makes this option much more desirable in hair color.
The extraction method is more costly than cooking up some synthetic MEA in a lab.
Alas, there’s another problem with using Ethanolamine and MEA in higher than necessary percentages… the removal process.
It has been postulated that this ingredient is hard to remove from hair.
Companies still standing by ammoniated hair color have used this aspect of MEA as a way to denounce its effectiveness, but have failed to realize one enormous detail.
The best ammonia-free hair color lines have added Oleic acid (derived from olive oil) to safely remove any product left on the hair.
However, some ammonia-free color lines haven’t caught on to this little trick – make sure to use brands that have!
We’ve covered the primary role of ammonia, and it’s more desirable alternatives, but don’t forget – ammonia also has a secondary function.
When mixed with peroxide, ammonia neutralizes the existing color pigment, allowing color to further penetrate the cuticle.
Ethanolamine and MEA aren’t capable of doing this effectively.
So, an ammonia-free hair color line must have a color delivery system that compensates for the lack of ammonia.
Top-rated hair color lines have found an oil-based delivery system not only solves this problem, but that it actually works better than ammonia.
Hair absorbs oil before water, so using oil as a means of color molecule transport is not only effective, but optimal in any color line.
When deciding which ammonia-free color line is best for your salon and stylists, be sure to dig deeper into these type of ingredients!Leave a reply